The 5 Most Effective Organic Pest Control Methods Spray Spinosad. Spinosad is a form of bacteria that naturally kills insects in your garden without risking spreading to other nearby wild animals. An organic pest killer that is also moderately toxic to most mammals and is found naturally in the seeds and stems of some plants. Use with caution near ponds or lakes, as rotenone is extremely toxic to fish.
Kill leaf-eating caterpillars, beetles, aphids and thrips in vegetable and fruit crops. However, give it some time, as it is a slow-acting chemical that requires a few days to work. One of the most commonly used botanical insecticides in the U.S. UU.
It is non-toxic to most mammals, making it an especially safe option. This insecticide is a powerful and fast-acting deterrent, even in low doses. After exposure, most flying insects fall immediately, but they don't always die. Some manufacturers mix pyrethrin with more deadly solutions to ensure insect death.
Sure, caterpillars can be cute, but they can also wreak havoc on leafy crops. Bt is the shortened version of Bacillus thuringiensis, a natural bacterium that causes pests to get sick when ingested. Spray on the leafy vegetables that caterpillars eat and Bt will kill them from the inside out. Because it is only harmful to eat it, this is an extremely safe organic pesticide for preserving beneficial insects.
Spray out of direct sunlight (which will reduce its effectiveness after several hours) and repeat every 7-10 days until you no longer need it. Bt products may include genetically modified strains, so be sure to check the packaging to verify the contents of the formula. Because of its growth retardation effects, neem oil works best on young insects and fast-growing insects, such as pumpkin bugs, Colorado potato beetles, and Mexican bean beetles. Also effective on smaller leaf-eating caterpillars and aphids.
Best of all? If you have excess neem oil, you can spray it on vine crops that are at risk for powdery mildew, as neem is slightly effective in preventing this plant disease. If you object to the use of chemicals, albeit organic, around your vegetable crops, consider spraying food-grade diatomaceous earth on your garden bed. Diatomaceous earth is best used in dry cases and becomes less effective when wet. While it also targets some indoor insects, it will kill Japanese beetles, cutworms, flies, ticks, crickets, slugs, and other species.
Unfortunately, it will kill beneficial insects, so be careful. Certain minerals can also be used to control pests. Sulfur is sold as a liquid, wettable powder, or paste and will control mites, psyllids, and thrips. Use on vegetables such as beans, potatoes, tomatoes, or peas.
While not toxic to humans, it can irritate skin and eyes. The disadvantage of using sulfur is that it has been shown to damage plants in dry climates when temperatures exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and it is incompatible with other pesticides. They are an incredible store for the organic gardener. If you use diotamceous soil, make sure it is food grade.
They also carry a large number of beneficial insects. Nothing stops insects like a physical barrier, and one of the best for vegetable crops is the floating cover in rows. This lightweight, non-woven fabric lets in light, air and water, but prevents insects from feeding and laying eggs. Row covers work great on vegetables, broccoli, tubers, and any crop that doesn't need bee pollination.
They will also protect seedlings from cold temperatures of up to 28°F or lower, depending on the thickness of the fabric. Speaking of barriers, an electric fence is one of the only safe ways to keep Bambi, Rocky Raccoon, and other animals away from your prized edible garden. While repellent sprays can work for a while, animals are smart enough to get used to the spray and move around anyway. If deer pressure is low, use a single strand of wire for electric fencing 30 inches above the ground.
In regions with large populations of hungry deer, use several strands, a few feet apart. The key is to install the fence early in the season, before the animals find their orchard or fruit trees. You can teach animals to avoid the fence with a peanut butter bait. After a few harmless blows, they will probably avoid the area completely.
Unlike its heavier, toxic cousin, inactive oil, horticultural oil is a light, fine-grade oil based on petroleum or vegetable that coats insect eggs, larvae, and adults and suffocates them without damaging the foliage. Use oil in the garden to kill aphids, leafhoppers, mites and whiteflies. A few drops of oil on the tips of developing sweet corn cobs will control the cornworm. Oils pose little risk to both gardeners and desirable species and integrate well with natural biological controls.
They also dissipate rapidly by evaporation, leaving little residue. However, oils can harm plants if applied at excessive rates, on sensitive plants, or on particularly hot (above 100°F) or cold (below 40°F) days. Use inactive oils to kill insect pest eggs and disease spores on bare branches of trees and shrubs during idle season. To treat growing plants, use a lighter, more refined horticultural oil (called summer oil, supreme, or superior).
Lighter oils evaporate faster than inactive oils and are less likely to harm plants. When you find the first pests in your trap, you'll know it's time to start your control strategies, such as placing the row covers in position and applying Bacillus thuringiensis. The best control methods include spacing plants generously so that the soil dries quickly and removing mulch where these pests like to hide. If you use an all-inclusive commercial pest control powder, you'll kill all the beneficial bugs and insects in your garden and you don't want to.
By contrast, organic gardening basically means using the least harmful method of controlling pests and diseases. In fact, ED is more of a mechanical control than a chemical control, since its mode of operation consists of cutting insect bodies and causing death by dehydration. Once you have identified the causes of problems, you can control them with a variety of organic pest control products, ranging from organic pesticides to floating row covers. This is a good option for those who do not yet have significant pest infestations and want to start reducing the number of potential pests.
Incorporating natural pest control measures into your growing scheme is a good start, but there are several artificial options available to the grower to keep pests at bay. There are a number of organic pest control techniques you can use to keep your plants safe and keep pests at bay. If the garden is not in production during the winter months, it is always best to thoroughly clean all organic materials, to prevent rodents and insect pests from overwintering. But you can buy them for billions to use as a living, organic, safe and non-toxic form of pest control.
Some plants can be planted as a pest trap, making them an ally in your organic pest control efforts. By focusing on natural processes, growers use pest control methods, starting with the least toxic ones and gradually amplifying pest control needs if problems persist. Here's how to use organic pest control methods to keep your orchard thriving free from pest damage and poison. .
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